How to care for your bits and spurs?
Tips to maintain and keep the ‘new’ a little longer on your bits and spurs (steel and stainless)
The most important difference between stainless (satin and high polish) and steel (brown, black, and satin) is that stainless will resist rust. Finishes are a personal preference; there is not one that is more popular than another. Outlined below is a tip list for the general care of your bits and spurs, as well as a more in depth care guide on both stainless and steel.
GENERAL CARE TIPS:
- Remove wet material (mud, etc) from the surface of your spurs or bit before it dries.
- Use a semi soft bristled brush to remove dirt or other dried material from the surface.
- Wipe with a dry towel to remove any residues that might tarnish or rust the metal.
- Jewelry silver polish paste can be used directly on the silver overlays to maintain its shine – product.
- Use 3-in-1 oil to eliminate squeaks or to free up part movement – product.
- To sanitize a bit or spurs soak them in a chlorhexidine solution and gently clean build up with a soft bristled brush – product.
- Store bits in spurs in a cool and dry place.
- If rowels start to wobble look at getting them tightened or replaced before they wear into the shanks.
If you have any tips or suggestions please share them below in the comments section.
STAINLESS (satin and high polish):
With the proper care a stainless steel bit (shanks) and spurs will stay rust free in almost any climate. If it does get rust on the surface it is easily removed with a solvent and nylon brush.
Depending on the amount of use your bit or spurs receive throughout the year will determine how often this process is used.
1) Clean the metal only (remove all leather trimmings) in a water bath of chlorhexidine or similar gentle detergent (do not use bleach or water with high levels of salt). Use a soft bristled brush to remove any build up on the surface.
2) Dry the metal completely before moving to the next step. Use a dry towel to remove as much of the moisture as possible and then blow dry or air dry it the rest of the way.
3) Oil bit surfaces and moving parts with olive oil or another non toxic oil (product). Spurs can be oiled with any gun cleaning oil (product) as they do not make contact with the horses mouth; however olive oil or another non toxic oil will work as well.
4) Buff the surface with a soft cloth to bring out the shine. To further bring out the silver work use a silver polishing compound (product), but avoid the stainless surface.
STEEL (brown, black, and satin):
Over time your steel bits and spurs will develop an oxidized or lightly rusted surface. This is a desired patina and should be maintained, but not removed completely as you are removing part of the spur material. On bits, horses enjoy the rusted surface of the sweet iron mouthpieces and this should not be removed.
Depending on the amount of use your bit or spurs receive throughout the year will determine how often this process is used.
1) Clean the metal only (remove all leather trimmings) with a oiled cloth or fine steel wool. Do not use an abrasive material as it will promote rusting and pit your finish. You can use the same non toxic (bits) or gun cleaning oil (spurs) mentioned in the above stainless section. Wipe the spurs down with a soft cleaning cloth (microfiber, old t-shirt, etc) to remove the clouded oil. Use a dry cloth to remove as much of the oil as possible.
2) If you have a black (gun blue) finish you can touch up the worn spots with a gun bluing touch up product (product). Be sure and follow the products directions.
3) Apply a thin layer of olive oil or another non toxic oil (product) to the surface and moving parts. Spurs can be oiled with any gun cleaning oil (product) as they do not make contact with the horses mouth; however olive oil or another non toxic oil will work as well. Wipe it over the surface with a soft cloth to avoid scratching or marring the finish.
4) To further bring out the silver work use a silver polishing compound (product), but avoid the non silver surfaces.
Which Bit Is Right For Me?
Bit Mouthpieces And Rings Explained – Common Understanding Of Bit Functions
Have you noticed that you can ask two equine experts the same bit question and get two very different answers? There are many different schools of thought in the equine world. One is not necessarily more right than another, however there are a few common understandings that have emerged. We have compiled the following information to help guide in your unique bit decisions. It is also strongly encouraged to speak with someone that understands your riding style and horse (trainer, fellow rider, etc) for additional personal feedback on your bit needs. Purchasing a high quality bit requires the best educated decision possible; as it is an investment that will often last a lifetime. Our trial bit service is offered to those that would like to try a mouthpiece before purchasing, to ensure they are comfortable with the function in relation to their riding style.
Because information is dynamic, we encourage you to share your experience and thoughts in the comment form below.
House Snaffle Mouthpiece: Noticeable mullen for wraparound pressure on the bars and increased tongue relief.
Balanced Snaffle Mouthpiece: The only snaffle that puts perfectly balanced pressure on both bars without one side being higher than the other. Eliminates the scissoring action of a snaffle.
Slick 50 Mouthpiece: This ingenious design gives the independent lateral control of the Hinged Port, but breaks in the middle (roller) like a balanced snaffle. It causes a horse to bend in the ribs while keeping the shoulder and the head in the correct position. Perfect for younger or light-mouthed horses and is a good transition from a snaffle.
Dr. Tom Mouthpiece: A Bristol type bit, with a three piece mouth that gives wraparound pressure on the bars and spreads pressure across the tongue. A nice transition bit from a snaffle to a shank.
Three ‘N One Mouthpiece: Copper rollers spread across tongue to promote leverage on the bars and tongue pressure. Copper rings are good for nervous horses.
Twisted Witch Mouthpiece: A more severe mouthpiece ideal for tuning or intermittent training. Used alternately it softens the mouth making the horse more responsive to their regular bit.
Billy Allen Mouthpiece: Independent lateral control for great lift and tongue pressure for responsive stops. The limited travel keeps the snaffle from excess pressure on the outside bars. Popular with cutters, reiners, and team penners.
Double Cross Mouthpiece: Many trainers favor this bit over a snaffle for young horses. Unique design restricts the horse from getting its tongue over the mouthpiece. A mild bit that gives remarkable control while keeping the head down. Easily accepted by the majority of horses.
Hinge Port Mouthpiece: Independent lateral control gives improved results in lifting a shoulder and positioning the horse. Endorsed by the worlds top ropers.
Correction Mouthpiece: Good transition from a long shank snaffle to a port. Collection and feel, flex and control.
Pro-Roller Correction Mouthpiece: Unique ballhinge design that’s perfectly balanced. Promotes correct head carriage and super rear end collection. Amazing feel with no dead spot. Designed with, built for, and endorsed by America’s leading trainers.
Equalizer Mouthpiece: Flat concave port with comfortable copper rollers offer a gentle delay before making contact. A bit with a lot of feel and rate. Recommended for use on a finished horse.
Sweetwater Mouthpiece: Allows tongue relief yet maintains pressure for correct head set and body positioning. Easily accepted by most horses.
Medium Port Mouthpiece: Slight port offers tongue relief without interfering with the roof of the mouth. Upright body positioning and moderate control.
High Port Mouthpiece: An old favorite of ropers. Also popular with Western Pleasure for promoting upright body position, collection, and correct head carriage.
Square Port Mouthpiece: Good tongue relief and pressure on the bars. With a roller it is good for fidgety or nervous horse.
D-Ring Snaffle: (Also referred to as the “don Dodge Snaffle”) The perfect bit for fine-tuning intermediate training. Fixed offset rings give light pressure on the bars and lips. A solid choice for developing lateral movement.
Loose Ring Snaffle: The favorite for starting colts. The heavier weight makes horses pick it up and hold it. Loose rings promote movement to increase salivation. Guaranteed not to pinch.
Ball Hinge Ring Snaffle: The unique hinge system and stationary ring offer maximum function and will eliminate severe response from pinching or binding. A well-balanced, all around bit.
Egg Butt Snaffle: Hinges at the butt of the bar with a restrained mouthpiece for lateral stability. This bit is small, lightweight, and perfect for the young horse with a sensitive mouth.
Full Cheek Snaffle: A favorite choice for putting the final polish on a developing horse. It won’t pull through and gives light, easy steering. This stylish bit is a good choice for crossover riders, delivering a traditional “hunter” look.
We look forward to your thoughts!
Custom Spur Creator
Build the spurs of your dreams then share, print, or order them!
From time to time we have all wished we could build our own TBBS spurs and play with different finishes before ordering them. Well now you can! You can build the base spur and apply different overlays and watch in real time as the price reflects the changes. Once you have your perfect set built share them with your friends and family via the social links at the bottom of the page. You can also email or print the spur combination for your own records. If you love the combination and are ready to order, simply add the custom creation to your shopping cart. If you run into questions let us know and we will be happy to guide you or provide any additional information.
We invite you to check it out, build a set of spurs, and let us know what you think! We love receiving feedback from our wonderful customers!
A bits perfect fit
How to fit a bit to your horses mouth
The way a bit fits in your horses mouth can effect even the best trained horse. A bit should have a 1/8 to a 1/4 inch gap on both sides of the horses mouth, allowing for controlled movement and to avoiding pinching. Our standard mouthpiece width is 5 1/8″. You can get the measurements of your horses mouth a number of different ways. Some of the most common are listed below.
1) Measure the mouthpieces of a bit you know fits your horses mouth.
2) Place a clean measuring device directly in your horses mouth and note the width from corner to corner.
3) Place a clean mark-able object, that is not very large in diameter, directly in your horses mouth and mark the width from corner to corner directly on the object.
Then measure the width between markings with a measuring device.
The measurement obtained is the size of your horses mouth and can be used when ordering bits from all makers. Remember to leave between 1/8 and 1/4 inch on both sides of the horses mouth.
Please leave a comment below if you have suggestions for additional ways of getting an accurate measurement of a horses mouth. We appreciate all feedback and interaction from all of our wonderful customers!
A PICTURE IS WORTH 1000 WORDS – MAKING A PALHAM BIT
We hope you enjoy our take on visual story telling! This story features the intricate process of crafting a Palham Bit, beginning to end.
Holly Spagnola Silverwork
Anytime we share photos of Holly’s work we receive overwhelming positive feedback. Her eye for the spectacular and attention to detail lend to mind blowing designs. She crafts many different items including jewelry and buckles using precious metal and stones. We often have people contact us wanting to order the spurs we’ve shared photos of; however we provide Holly with the spurs and she handles the design and transaction directly with the customer. If you are interested in having Holly design a set of spurs for you or would just like to visit with her about possible projects please contact her at: Phone: 203-219-8457 or contact form. To see more of Holly’s design work please visit her webpage.
A spurs perfect fit
The way a spur hugs your heel can make or break your day. We bend each heel band to its wearer for a firm hold that does not pinch or rub your foot. We ask for a specific measurement to ensure this fit is correct. Below is step by step instruction on getting this measurement with your current pair of spurs or your boot.
Measuring your fit from a current set of spurs
If you have a pair of spurs that you love the fit on, you can get that same feel by measuring them as per below.
1) trace the inside of your current spur as close to the heel band as possible
2) measure the width of the opening
3) draw a line where the measurement was taken and note the width
4) put your name and the date on the top of the drawing and fax/email/post it to us
Measuring your fit from your boot
If there is a pair of boots you love or if you don’t have another set of spurs to measure from, please use the following method to ensure the perfect fit.
1) get a piece of stiff wire and wear the boot that you want to measure from
2) wrap the wire around your heel where the spur will ride (molding the shape)
3) make sure the wire is holding its shape and can be slid on and off your boot
4) trace the inside of the wire shape as close to the wire as possible
5) measure the width of the opening
6) draw a line where the measurement was taken and note the width
7) put your name and the date on the top of the drawing and fax/email/post it to us
If you have any questions about this process please contact us and we will get your on the right path. We look forward to making your spurs and your day perfect!
Filming – How It’s Made
Tom’s reputation for superior craftsmanship has spread worldwide. In 2011 the film crew for Discovery Channels How It’s Made documented the elaborate process of hand-crafting a belt buckle, bit and spurs. Three segments were captured on film and have been aired within the United States. The segments are slowly being released worldwide in a multitude of translations. The segments are currently up on You Tube and can be viewed on our Video Tour page.
After we received confirmation the film crew from Discover Channel would be visiting us, we drew up some designs and started creating ‘step’ pieces. Since the film crew would only be with us a short time, these pieces would be used to show each step of the process as quickly as possible.
They arrived in a small white van, that was deceivingly spacious, and unloaded a large about of expertly packed equipment. The crew was efficient and extremely professional as they captured each process in HD. Every detail from lighting to angle was skillfully adjusted to perfection. The work spaces were tight so we all became friends fairly quickly. They even humored us taking photos of them during the whole process!
We catered a large meal and get together in honor of the opportunity and the hard work of the crews. It was set at Tom’s home and was a beautiful ending to the filming phase.
In the following months we worked with the editing crew to finalize footage and dialog for each of the three segments. This was a extensive phase of the process, but was crucial to the accuracy of the show. We were asked specific tool names and reasoning for each process so the segment would be as educational as possible. We had to be careful not to be to technical or industry specific as the audience is large and diverse.
We had fun during the process and hope you enjoy the segments created. If you are ever in the Sheridan Wyoming area please stop in the shop for a personal tour from Tom and see the process first hand!
Building a business for half your life…
Tom has been building Tom Balding Bits & Spurs for half his life! It was not always an easy path to forge. You can learn the basic history of the company at COMPANY HISTORY. This blog entry is dedicated to the little known stories that paint the picture of Tom’s journey and background.
Tom’s family was full of outdoor enthusiasts and he was raised backpacking, camping, and immersing himself in mother nature. His uncle would take him and his cousins up into the California wilderness for weeks at a time. His immediate family traveled all over camping from their car, catching fish, and enjoying each new adventure that came their way. This is the base that has created Tom’s desire to backpack, hike, mountain bike, and snowboard that to this day is a center point of his life.
As a young man he delivered papers in Ontario California to raise a little pocket money. He would slowly peddle by while delivering the morning paper to Hooker Headers (now owned by Holley) and dreamed of the day he could work there. He practiced welding in the family garage, using his fathers work equipment, and has since said he was surprised he did not blow himself sky high. The day he turned eighteen he stopped in Hooker and applied for a position. He was hired and started his official welding career.
Tom’s first car was a 33 Plymouth that he revived from the ground up. He laughs when he describes his many mistakes along the way including a mix up with the steering that resulted in having to turn the steering wheel left to go right and vise versa. Later in his life he purchased his 65 K code Mustang that he still drives to this day. It was a pace car that had been parked and become a rodent hotel. A lot of love and elbow grease in both cars turned out something to be proud of!
One of Tom’s early welding jobs included welding Hobie Cat sailboat parts for his cousin, Hobie Alter. Hobie Cat, like so many start ups during the 60’s and 70’s was not given much hope by outsiders. Tom watched his cousins passion sell surfboard after surfboard and later catamarans. Hobie’s first passion was surfing and he came up with lighter more efficient boards that he would use personally. Tom learned passion could be the difference between failure and success. He also honed his precision welding ability that he would later use to handle government contract work from his own shop. His first bit, many years later, was actually made from scrap sailboat parts.
Tom’s drive for adventure and life experience sent him from his comfortable life owning his own welding business on the California coast in the 80’s. He was thinking about where his life was heading, to the house on the hill and days of welding high paying jobs, and found there was no luster left. His neighbor owned a rarely ridden horse next door and Tom decided to try his hand at riding, hoping to cure his boredom. The neighbor warned him it would be a wild ride, but Tom was up for the challenge. He was promptly bucked off. At that moment he decided cowboy life would be a welcome change of pace and offer the much needed challenge he was yearning for. He packed up everything and moved to Wyoming where he bought a horse and trained it by reading a how-to book. He found work as a Wyoming ranch hand and put his full attention into learning every aspect of his new life.
Money was tight and Tom, in his passion for new experiences, took a traveling salesman position. He went door to door across the expanse of Wyoming peddling outdoor thermometers to housewives and hardened ranch owners. He refers to this span of his life with love, “If you don’t have anything, you have nothing to loose… I learned many things during my hardships in the early days”.
After his neighbor approached him and he built his first bit from scrap sailboat parts, Tom called his family to tell them he had found something that was easy to do and would be his new career. He went to town and had business cards made the next day. He later revoked the comment that it would be easy. After several attempts at building unique bits, not wanting to copy other makers, he found out he would need to gain a greater understanding of bits to build his business. He drove all over the country learning as much as he could from renowned trainers and horsemen. He always asked for the most honest feedback and would at times have to start a design almost back at the beginning to make sure it was right. These early connections would later launch his business into success, but before that break he drove to shows setting up booths and peddling his creations. Times were very tight and he often went with only enough money to get him there, fully dependent on sales to get him home. He almost lost his property during a particularly rough spell and loaded all his product up and drove to a large show with only the fuel in his tank, not a penny more to his name. This was a very risky move that could have left him stranded with out a home, money, or food. It paid off and he sold enough bits and spurs to get home and save his property.
He started building bits out of a mobile home he rescued from the landfill and experienced both freezing cold and fires from the propane space heaters. One of the fires was more of a smoldering hole in the floor that occurred overnight and filled the trailer with smoke to greet him the next morning. The smoldering hole was only feet away from a gas can full of fuel that could have been the early demise of the shop if luck had not been on his side. In the 90’s Tom built a home outside of Sheridan, doing most of the work himself, that he later sold to build the current location of Tom Balding Bits & Spurs. He loved the layout of the mobile home, using each room for a specific purpose and based the new shop to mimic that layout.
We hope you enjoyed this look into the man behind Tom Balding Bits & Spurs!